@Don Tavidash "@Karen...you certainly take your time to comment (like a year less a day :)
LOL. I'm sorry I missed replying a year ago! I was linking to some of the old Frankenstein Fixes for Halloween and came across your comment. Glad you are still out there "dumpster divin'" -- did you know that the high school electronics teacher who inspired Woz and Steve used to take the electronics hobby club dumpster diving? LOL.
@Karen...you certainly take your time to comment (like a year less a day :-)
I got a nice I2C controlled Audio amplifier board out of an old TV, have not played with it yet though. And I got a dead power supply with 3 nice meters in it. But best of all, I got to strip an old utility meter test bench which had
a variac (variable AC mains transformer)
a couple of 2.5KVA 240V isolation transformers (not sure what I can do with them, but they were too nice to end up in landfill)
a 32V 10A transformer (I can see a bright future for that in a power supply)
a 240 - 110V transformer (for when I have to test weird American stuff)
5 LCD Digital Panel meters, the LCDs have gone all dark but under my bench I have a box of new LCDs which are kinda compatible
1 LED digital Panel meter which is still good
a 2 KVA wattmeter with digital display
Now all I need is some time to play with all this stuff. I sooooo need to win the lotto and retire....
> "charger (ref 486910-17)" mine is 486901-25 so close....
I am assuming you are in the states so you would have a 110V transformer. And being 18V instead of 14.4V, some of the component values would be different. If I was Mr Black & Decker, I'd make the same boards and just change the tranny and the circuit values for different countries / batteries, but we can't assume....though you do say your board looks the same.
I'd say your first action should be to test the battery. Use a power supply with current limit set at 100 or 200 mA. If nothing else, use a 24v DC supply with a limiting resistor of 47 or 56 ohms - not critical - but make sure it is a 1W or better type. Charge the battery and the voltage should go up to around 21-23 volts after a few hours. If it does, your battery is fine. If it's low you have some shorted cells - the fact that your beefy resistor has burned out could indicate this. The beefy resistor is actually only limiting the trickle charge. 22 ohms is a very commonly used value for this, so if it got burned the red bands might go brown and look like 11 (which is not a preferred value).
As your battery voltage is different I can't comment on what this resistor should be - but as it is only for limiting the trickle charge it should not be critical - you should be able to measure a current of maybe 20-50 mA when the battery is trickle charging. If the resistor is burned you can't go by the colors, though 39 ohms sounds a bit high. My 22ohm was the big white square one in the photo.
Can you test transistors? If so you should also try testing Q1, Q2 and D5.
This post could rapidly get huge so email me at stn564 (at) yahoo (dot) com (dot) au if you want to discuss further.
Don, thanks for this post & the photos, I was looking everywhere for a post about the B&D 1hr charger, all the others I found are either for the wallwart slow charger or newer B&D charger, found your photo & then the post.
I've got a B&D 18v drill with a similar looking 1hr charger (ref 486910-17), all of a sudden the charger stopped charging my 3 batteries, I would get the red light for a few minutes & then nothing.
Once I got past the security torx screws (a small blade screw driver did the job) I found the same circuit board as yours (I think), however where you show a 22ohm resistor in the slot, I had a very burnt resistor & am not entirely sure if its a 22ohm or greater. I put a meter a cross it & I get 39ohms.
After reading your post I also checked the connection you mentioned & yes it has dried out & come away...good spot that one.
I'm a novice with circuits, so not sure if the resistor has blown or should be 39ohm, reading the colours on the burnt resistor I would get an 11ohm which sounds wrong.
As my charger is for a 18v battery, do you think this resistor is correct or should be a 22ohm, or maybe something else? everything else on the board does look the same.
I know its been a while since you posted this, but any adivce would be great.
Quickbadger - glad to be of help. Apart from dry joints, check that the connection to the side of the battery is good - the silver bit you can see on the side of the upright black plastic thing on the small board in the 2nd photo. It can move slightly and might not be contacting the battery, though I only had problems when "test-running" it with the charger out of the case. I think the movement when you inster and remove the battery caused the wire to flex and cause the dry joint in the first place.
Always good to have a second drill - you can use one for drilling and one for screwing and not spend your life changing bits. Good luck with it!
The Drill probably ranks as one of my best finds. Some time ago I found some obsolete "Grid-sense" units - they attach to power poles and sense the electric and magnetic fields from the wires, and if they go off they flash to enable faultfinding crews to locate the fault. They each had a small solar panel, a xenon tube, lots of red LEDs, and all sorts of other bits to scavenge off them, and there were 5 of them. Rich pickings!
I think your mother was right. I don't pick up combs either.
I've had a few experiences lately where I've been able to repair things that generally aren't considered repairable. One was an LCD monitor. I actually found a guy selling a small parts kit for, what is apparently a common problem with that type. I fixed a dead $120.00 monitor for $12.00. I've also repaired a bike computer and a few other items that I would have otherwise thrown away.
Years ago, just about everything was repairable, but that changed in the 1980's. I'm thinking that the tool sets, parts and information availability and overall knowledge has caught up with new manufacturing techniques such that people who are inclined, like you, can start treating a lot of devices as repariable instead of throw-away.
What are the engineering and design challenges in creating successful IoT devices? These devices are usually small, resource-constrained electronics designed to sense, collect, send, and/or interpret data. Some of the devices need to be smart enough to act upon data in real time, 24/7. Are the design challenges the same as with embedded systems, but with a little developer- and IT-skills added in? What do engineers need to know? Rick Merritt talks with two experts about the tools and best options for designing IoT devices in 2016. Specifically the guests will discuss sensors, security, and lessons from IoT deployments.