Just to give you a taste of what's to come, one of the things I want to do is run my Arduino Mega, chipKIT Max32, and all of the LEDs in the BADASS display off a common 26A 5V highly-regulated supply.
However, the Arduino Mega requires a minimum of 7V (and preferably 9V or higher) from it's external supply. Meanwhile, the chipKIT Max32 does have the ability to bypass the main regulator and feed the 5V in directly, but there is a teeny-tiny gotcha if you also have the USB cable connected to a computer at the same time.
Fortunately, my on-site techno-weenie Ivan the Terrible (author of the "All About Batteries" blogs here on EE Times) has come up with cunning solutions to all of these issues.
Hmmm -- these do look tasty -- I'm afraid that the ymight be just a tad too wide - -I need to get my hands on one to check it out -- I'll order one today (the other thing is the cost -- remember tha tI need 250 of these little scamps)
Two thoughts for the mass-production; 3-D printer to create multiple copies at once, or a CNC machine to mill them. (Out of a large sheet, so lots created per loading.) At least the machine wouldn't get bored.
@perl_geek: Two thoughts for the mass-production...
I'm currently exploring a variety of options. I must admit that the Fresnel lenses do look rather tasty -- but it depends on (a) how they fit in the washers and (b) if I can find a really low-cost source.
I have one on order at the moment so we can check point (a) -- depending on the result we can decide what oiur next move shoudl be.
I suggest you make a filler disk with a center hole the same size as your brass washer. It doesn't matter what material you use, could be another very cheap washer. Glue your translucent disk to the filler disk. Glue your new assembly to the brass washer. Glue the final assembly to the surface of your project. If you select your glue positions carefully, the glue should be hidden when you are done.
The "filler disk" could asily be glue, or wood putty / paste (or something similar --- does not nned to be a washer / metal / "finished product"). Both harden and can be glued easily, and allow for clean up" before assembly. This can also be done to "mount" whatever lens you fit into the hole.
Whichever way you go, you might consider using a 1 1/16" Forstner or anular bit (ideally spun by a cnc mill for accurate grid placement)on the face of the hardboard to positively locate each brass washer. You can fine tune the depth to just barely capture the film/lens between washer and board eliminating the need for glue there. A small bit of glue in the recess can unobtrusively secure the washer if needed. The hole depth can also be used to adjust distance from LED to film/dissuser/lens.
@slomobile: Whichever way you go, you might consider using a 1 1/16" Forstner or anular bit (ideally spun by a cnc mill for accurate grid placement)on the face of the hardboard to positively locate each brass washer.
That's not a bad idea -- I was already moving to using a CNC machine to drill the holes, because having them wander aroudn even a little will ruin the whole look of the thing.
What are the engineering and design challenges in creating successful IoT devices? These devices are usually small, resource-constrained electronics designed to sense, collect, send, and/or interpret data. Some of the devices need to be smart enough to act upon data in real time, 24/7. Are the design challenges the same as with embedded systems, but with a little developer- and IT-skills added in? What do engineers need to know? Rick Merritt talks with two experts about the tools and best options for designing IoT devices in 2016. Specifically the guests will discuss sensors, security, and lessons from IoT deployments.