@Rcurl: Next year I wonder if they would let me in if I ride an electric scooter with a small trailer behind!
One guy had a weird low-down trolly with a high-up pushing handle that was ideal for thsi sort of thing. Wait till you see my pictures (hopefully in a blog tomorrow) -- I want to get me one of those!!!
Hey -- fancy a road trip up to Dayton Ohio next May -- apparently they have a MONSTER Hamfest (I will talk about this in my Hamfest blog also)
@Rcurl: I was soooo disappointed to have missed the Hamfest this year- although it sounds like you made off with all of the choice stuff before I could have gotten there anyway.
I wish you coudl have been there with me -- both ouf us sporting our Hawaiian shirts (truth to tell, there were actually quite a few folks with Hawaiian shirts there ... but mine was the best LOL). Wait till you see my photos -- there were three vendors selling meters -- more meters than you can possibly believe -- I really only got a relatively small number compared to all the ones that were out there.
Hi Max, My first boss at London Underground Research Labaoratory made a clock with meters for telling the time. I think it was all run with TTL 74 series IC's on veroboard.
However I think you are missing one dial which of course has to be a sun dial.
How cool to have a sun dial that works at night. Not sure how it would be achieved obviously the gnomon and dial are easy, but casting the shadow would require a led light source and stepper motor? Or would you use a fixed light source and turn the dial?
I think this might just end up on my whacky to do list.
Great article and look forward to further updates.
I built an analog timeofdayometer. See picture below. Accuracy was a bigger issue than I originally imagined due to the following. I was using a long-throw movement, which have a not so constant-force springs. I tried to copy the non-linear scale of the original faceplate but that was a challange to layout (I used AutoCAD) and I never really got it right. On my next iteration Im going to use a linear scale and apply a nonlinear correction factor on my output value. Another issue was that, although I used a 32.768KHz xtal timebase, my time would drift. I used buttons in the back to set the time but next time I'm just going to throw in a GPS to get the time and forgo buttons and solve the drift problem at the same time. I tried the flicker thing and it looks cool. I only flickered the needle every 15s so it wasn't annoying.
They way I understand it you apply 6 volts to the heater and after 60 seconds the relay closes and disconnects the heater which cools down. The heater then reconnects and starts the process all over again. Your time measurement would then be retro too and you'd have a neat vacuum tube to show off. Of course it would only tick every minute instead of every second.