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DrQuine
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New faceplates for analog meters
DrQuine   8/22/2014 2:08:35 PM
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I recently purchased a replacement explosive gas sensor for a storage area and realized that the meter had been very neatly relabeled with the appropriate text. They were buying 0 - 20 ma gauges and then affixing new text on the meter faces for the application at hand.

antedeluvian
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Realistic
antedeluvian   8/22/2014 2:16:08 PM
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Max

One thing I'd vaguely considered was to sand the faceplate down (using very fine sandpaper), spray-paint it white, and then add the new annotations by hand using a very fine indelible marker. But the more I think about this, the more I think the result would look absolutely horrible

But more realistically Victorian! In my blog Touring as an Engineer, I mention the Pitt-Rivers Museum where the labels on the exhibits are either handwritten or written with a typewriter with a rather grungy ribbon.

 

mhrackin
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Meter Guts
mhrackin   8/22/2014 2:31:08 PM
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ALL D'Arsonval (moving coil) meters are the best type, and the basic design is ALWAYS a DC current meter.  Many of these have a movement wiith a full-scale range of either 50uaDC (the expensive ones) or 1maDC.  These can be made to display other functions or ranges by connecting either a shunt resistor (for higher FS current) or series resistor (multiplier) to change to a DC voltmater.  For AC, the meter may be a moving-vane (e.g. Shurite type, usually relatively cheap) design which will work for AC or DC (although scale factor may be off), or uses a rectifier (typically bridge) along with a multipler or shunt.  VERY often, the shunt, multipler, and/or rectifier is EXTERNAL, so you CAN'T go by the faceplate in determining the meter configuration!  It's pretty easy to tell, thpough, with  a DC power supply, some resistors, and a multimeter.  Assume it's a "naked" DC milli/micro-ammeter, connect the PSU, a suitable current-limiting resistor, and the multimeter (in ammeter mode) in series and see what the meter does when the PSU is turned on.  Ther rest of the process (and how to calculate appropriate shunt/multiplier values) is left as an exercise for the student!

mhrackin
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Re: Meter Guts
mhrackin   8/22/2014 2:35:24 PM
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PS: examining the photo of the disassembled meter, it has an internal shunt THAT CAN BE REMOVED. That would restore the basic movement range etc. so you can use it!  Same for "voltmeters" except the multiplier is often external; if it is internal, it's also easily removable.

mhrackin
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Re: Meter Guts
mhrackin   8/22/2014 2:39:07 PM
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Also, nearly all faceplates are symmetric; thus no need to scrape.  Just flip it over and paint!  I've used that trick many times.  If you have an old drafting tool/ pen set, the compass is terrific for draing the scale arc (if you can find some India ink.....).  I have a couple of sets (including one older than I am).

antedeluvian
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Re: Meter Guts
antedeluvian   8/22/2014 2:45:52 PM
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mhrackin

(if you can find some India ink.....). 

I think I saw some in my drawer after I went rummaging after reading David Ashton's Slideshow: The Joy of Rotring

 

Max The Magnificent
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Re: New faceplates for analog meters
Max The Magnificent   8/22/2014 2:54:34 PM
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@DrQuine: They were buying 0 - 20 ma gauges and then affixing new text on the meter faces for the application at hand.

Don;t keep me in suspense -- how was the new text presented? As sticky labels or as re-painted faces or...

 

Max The Magnificent
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Re: Realistic
Max The Magnificent   8/22/2014 2:55:45 PM
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@Antedeluvian: ...or written with a typewriter with a rather grungy ribbon...

But where are we going to find a rather grungy ribbon at this time of the day LOL

Max The Magnificent
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Re: Meter Guts
Max The Magnificent   8/22/2014 2:57:08 PM
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@mhrackin: ...examining the photo of the disassembled meter, it has an internal shunt THAT CAN BE REMOVED. That would restore the basic movement range etc. so you can use it! 

HAPPY DANCE!!!

Max The Magnificent
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Re: Meter Guts
Max The Magnificent   8/22/2014 2:58:43 PM
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@mhrackin: Also, nearly all faceplates are symmetric; thus no need to scrape.  Just flip it over and paint!

Well, b##### me -- believe it or not, that had nerver struck me, and I'm starting the faceplate right in the ... well, face, actually :-)

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